【Shoedex No.1】VASS × Roberto Ugolini

Collaboration between a Hungarian shoemaker and an Italian bespoke artisans

VASS is a factory brand in Budapest, Hungary. Most of the production is done by hand and their skills are one of the best in Eastern Europe.

Meanwhile, Roberto Ugolini is a bespoke shoemaker from Florence, Italy. Many people are fascinated with his beautiful Italian designs in all over the world, and many shoemakers train in his workshop.

The Last shoes I am about to introduce originate from collaboration between a highly technical workshop, VASS, and Italian bespoke aesthetic by Roberto Ugolini.

Beautiful shape

As you can see from the front, the upper part of the shoes is slightly twisted, which creates a rather beautiful shape.

Slightly twisted Last

The lining seams are usually on both sides, but this shoe has seams on the back of the facing, hidden by the tongue. You can feel the passion by VASS to improve the fitting even a little. The insole is full sock.

Left: The lining seam is hidden by the tongue. Right: There is a seam at the position hidden by the tongue.
Full sock

The outsole are finished with closed channel which hides the outstiching. The outsole is made of Rendenbach, oak bark that is known for its durability.


The shoe covered in this article is made with U last- named after Ugolini’s initial.

Below is the size chart of the shoes I usually wear.

Unit Size
cm 25.5 〜 26.0
US 7.5D 〜 8D
EUR 40.5 〜 41

The size of the shoes worn this time is EUR41.

I felt that the toes were narrow in EUR41, but I think that leather should soften with time.

Since West Garth is relatively narrow, it may be the same as the size you normally wear, or it can be half size up.

By the way, the U, K, F lasts that VASS uses are designed by Ugorini, too.


About the author

Ken Kataoka

Hi, I’m Ken Kataoka, based in Tokyo Japan. I’m fascinated by leather shoes and shoe care. Also, I make bespoke shoes. I write articles on shoe care & tools, shoe brands and more from my experience.

Leave a comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *